Difference between revisions of "Hole Saws and Arbors"
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| + | ===Consumable Hole Saws=== | ||
| + | [http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/groups.asp?GroupID=199 Starrett] | ||
| + | [http://www.abmetal.ch/blumol_catalog.pdf Blu Mol] | ||
| + | [http://www.lenoxsaw.com/holesaw.htm Lennox] | ||
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| + | ===Sharpenable Hole Saws=== | ||
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Most hole saw manufacturers provide some way of holding the saw. This is usually done in a less than precise way. | Most hole saw manufacturers provide some way of holding the saw. This is usually done in a less than precise way. | ||
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| + | The natrual solution is to take some precision shaft and thread the end for what ever hole saw size you need. This has the advantage of being able to make an extended arbor. | ||
For improved precision and more ridgid foundation to your saws, use an arbor For threaded drill chucks. These are available from several suppliers, but one of the cheapest I found was [http://www.victornet.com Victor Machinery Exchange, Inc.] | For improved precision and more ridgid foundation to your saws, use an arbor For threaded drill chucks. These are available from several suppliers, but one of the cheapest I found was [http://www.victornet.com Victor Machinery Exchange, Inc.] | ||
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DCA-1/2-5816 1/2" Straight to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $5.90<br> | DCA-1/2-5816 1/2" Straight to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $5.90<br> | ||
DCA-R8-5816 R8 Taper to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $13.00<br> | DCA-R8-5816 R8 Taper to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $13.00<br> | ||
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| + | If you mitre on a lathe and need a 5C chuck arbor, a 5C Plug Chuck with 1-3/4" Extended Nose Length and no pilot hole should be ordered. It can be threaded for what ever saw you need. Available from [http://hardingetooling.com/PartSpec.asp?ID=10150000000000 Hardinge], P/N 10150000000000, $30.25. | ||
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| + | Personally, I prefer to use either a R8 or 5C tool whenever I can. They are the most ridged and accurate way of mounting a tool. | ||
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| + | ===Truing Hole Saws=== | ||
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| + | Hole saws may not end up perfectly round. A frame builder may have to true the saw by spinning it on a lathe and cutting material from behind the tips that extend past the cut area. | ||
[[category:Bicycle]] | [[category:Bicycle]] | ||
[[category:Frame Building]] | [[category:Frame Building]] | ||
Revision as of 15:23, 30 March 2007
Consumable Hole Saws
Sharpenable Hole Saws
Arbors
Most hole saw manufacturers provide some way of holding the saw. This is usually done in a less than precise way.
The natrual solution is to take some precision shaft and thread the end for what ever hole saw size you need. This has the advantage of being able to make an extended arbor.
For improved precision and more ridgid foundation to your saws, use an arbor For threaded drill chucks. These are available from several suppliers, but one of the cheapest I found was Victor Machinery Exchange, Inc.
Index of VME drill chuck arbors:
DCA-1/2-3824 1/2" Straight to 3/8"-24 Drill Chuck Arbor $5.90
DCA-1/2-1220 1/2" Straight to 1/2"-20 Drill Chuck Arbor $5.90
DCA-1/2-5816 1/2" Straight to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $5.90
DCA-R8-5816 R8 Taper to 5/8"-16 Drill Chuck Arbor $13.00
If you mitre on a lathe and need a 5C chuck arbor, a 5C Plug Chuck with 1-3/4" Extended Nose Length and no pilot hole should be ordered. It can be threaded for what ever saw you need. Available from Hardinge, P/N 10150000000000, $30.25.
Personally, I prefer to use either a R8 or 5C tool whenever I can. They are the most ridged and accurate way of mounting a tool.
Truing Hole Saws
Hole saws may not end up perfectly round. A frame builder may have to true the saw by spinning it on a lathe and cutting material from behind the tips that extend past the cut area.
