Difference between revisions of "Bicycle Fitting and Sizing"
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===Weight Distribution=== | ===Weight Distribution=== | ||
Road - 45% Front / 55% Rear | Road - 45% Front / 55% Rear | ||
+ | ===Cleat Position=== | ||
+ | |||
+ | "5. Make sure that the ball of your foot [centre of the first metatarsal joint] is in front of the pedal axle with the crank arm forward and horizontal. For a rough guide for shoe size metric 36 - 38, 7mm in front; 39 - 41, 8mm in front; 42 - 43, 9mm in front; 44 -45, 10mm in front. It is unlikely that your feet are bigger than that. Don't forget to move the right cleat further back again as outlined in point 3. I know that this is at variance with the commonly given advice but you will find as you try it that it works." | ||
+ | |||
+ | http://www.cyclingnews.com/fitness/?id=2004/letters07-26#Cleat | ||
+ | |||
+ | http://www.cyclingnews.com/fitness/?id=2004/letters10-11#Ball | ||
===Crank Length=== | ===Crank Length=== |
Revision as of 20:27, 14 October 2008
Contents
Why Fit
Different Philosophies
Serotta
Serotta has been a leader in bicycle fit for quite a while. The established the Serrotta Cycling Institute to further the goals of a better understanding of bike fit.
Fit Bikes
- Calfee Sizer Cycle
- Serotta Fit Bike
- San Giorgio Fig Jig
Kits
Local Fitters
- NorCal Cycling in Santa Rosa. $75. They do a pretty good job. Much better than the average bike shop in the bay area. This is where I send most people that need a basic fitting.
- Whole Athelete, San Anselmo, CA, $220-295
- Craig Upton of Performance Lab HC , $150
- PK Racing, in Fairfax. $450-500. Primarily pro road/tri experts. They are very expensive and I have no personal experience with them other than the fact that they are only 3 blocks from my house.
- Cycle Sport, in Oakland. $125
or search Serotta by zip code
Links
- Jack's Bikes - A fit kit walk through
- Cyclemetrics link page
- Pruitt
Some Traditional Numbers
Weight Distribution
Road - 45% Front / 55% Rear
Cleat Position
"5. Make sure that the ball of your foot [centre of the first metatarsal joint] is in front of the pedal axle with the crank arm forward and horizontal. For a rough guide for shoe size metric 36 - 38, 7mm in front; 39 - 41, 8mm in front; 42 - 43, 9mm in front; 44 -45, 10mm in front. It is unlikely that your feet are bigger than that. Don't forget to move the right cleat further back again as outlined in point 3. I know that this is at variance with the commonly given advice but you will find as you try it that it works."
http://www.cyclingnews.com/fitness/?id=2004/letters07-26#Cleat
http://www.cyclingnews.com/fitness/?id=2004/letters10-11#Ball
Crank Length
18.5% from top of femur to floor.
Inseam:
- < 29 inches - 165 mm crank
- 29 - 32 inches - 170 mm crank
- 32 - 34 inches - 172.5 mm crank
- > 34 inches - 175 mm crank
Frame Size:
- 54 cm or less, 170 mm
- 55 - 58 cm, 172.5 mm
- 59 cm or greater, 175 mm
Knee Angle
30-35 Degrees. More bend conserves more energy, less bend for more power.
31-32 is optimum.
Saddle Height
- Inseam (with cycling shoes) x 0.883 = Top of the saddle to the center of the bottom bracket. (beware oversized feet using this)
- Inseam (with cycling shoes) x 1.09 = Pedal spindle to top of saddle with pedal parallel to seat tube.
Trunk Angle
About 30-40 degrees from level. (45 at most)
Shoulder Angle
90-100 degrees.
Elbow Bend
15 degrees
Stem Length
- When in drops, axle obscured by bars.
- With arms bent 15 degrees in drops, plumb line from nose bisects stem at bars.
Handlebar Height
- 1-2 inches below the saddle for small riders
- up to 4 inches for taller riders.