One of the best articles that I read on this subject was on the Cessna Owners Group Web site, HERE. THIS page from RC51.org has a detailed break-in procedure that sounds reasonable. MotoTune USA has a differing view on break in's. Everyone has a differing opinion on this subject. I think that the main thing to understand from all of these points of view is that heat cycles and loading of the engine are very important. You want to start the bike up once or twice to make sure all is good, letting the engine come 1/2 way to operating temp, then fully cool, then 3/4 to operating temp, then fully cool, then full warm up and ridden under varying hard load for a few hours, then fully cool. Stay under hard varying load throughout the break in period. You never want to sit in traffic or just put down the road. Ride it hard, but keep it below redline.
A major debate always ensues regarding whether or not to use a synthetic oil during break-in. Mobil 1 and Castrol both say it is alright, but they are selling mainly to passenger cars and want you to buy their premium product. Once I read that Red Line Oil recomended using their product after running a petrolium 10W30 oil for the first 1500-2000 miles, I was convinced. Red Line IS performance lube and any time a company says not to buy their product, stop and listen. VP Racing does actually sell a synthetic oil designed specifically for breaking in new motors. This could use some investigation.
In addition, if it were my new bike, I would drive it home from the dealer and immediately change the oil and filter to a quality mineral-based oil like Castrol GTX 10W-40 (PDS)(depending on wether you belive in using synthetics or not during break-in) and a quality aftermarke or Stock oil filter. Some microscopic manufacturing debris could be in the new engine. In addition, molybdenum based assembly lubes are typically used during the assembly of an engine and transmission. These lubes are oil soluble and mix into the engine oil, but the molybdenum component may be very bad for the wet clutch, it make no sense to drive the bike any more than it takes to flush them out. Also, the manufacturer may have used a preservative oil in the engine to protect it while in transit and storage. Think of this as a $20 insurance policy on your new bike.Then do another full oil change at 300 miles and another at 600 miles.
At about 1,000 or 1,500 miles, switch to full synthetic oils.
Following the initial oil change, the bike should be sagged and new springs should be ordered and installed, if needed. Get the suspension dialed in externally as much as you can, with the new springs, while you break the bike's engine in.
Re-gear the bike as soon as you get a chance to feel the powerband on your favorite roads. You will probably have to gear the bike down. The question will be: How much? Do not be too hesitant to make big changes especially on smaller displacement bikes. Most bikes need at least one tooth down in front and one up in the rear. One word to the wise, change to 520 now and order a master link for the stock 525 chain. Then when you sell the bike, put the 525 and gears back on so you can say "new chain and sprockets!". This way you can keep all you 520 gears and chain to try on your next bike. If funds are a concern, just drop the countershaft sprocket 1 tooth. This will only cost $20 and you should not have to replace the stock chain or rear sprocket.
Also see: http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/600RRbreakin.htm
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